About the AuthorTom Martin is an entrepreneur, writer, inventor, and outdoorsman. Much of his adult life has been expended in electronic research, and in the development of productions ranging from burglar alarm schemes to instrumentation for rappelling and rescue. He has also been instrumental in the startup of assorted sales and devising companies.
A outstanding love of the out-of-doors has led him to innumerable places in search of beauty and adventure, as is evident in his book in regards to ice formations. For numerous years, through hikes, campouts, and slide presentations, he has been sharing the joy of these adventures with boy scouts, girl scouts, and a heap of school and adult audiences. His expertness in the art of rappelling has enabled him to train a good deal of firemen, police officers, and rescue squads in this lifesaving skill. His volunteer attempts have introduced a big number of people to rock climbing, cave exploring, rappelling, and to a dandier appreciation of the natural world in which they live.
Other books by Tom Martin include: Kentucky Ice, and Osbervations.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.This book is devoted to the innumerable persons in rescue squads, fire departments, police departments, and the military who rappel to save lives. May it make your occupation safer.
Just how safe or dangerous rappelling is, depends on how you wish to make it. It may - and will have to - be far safer than driving to the area where you rappel. How safe it is depends closely altogether on you - the rappeller. You are permitted no mistakes!
Look out for holes. As one rappeller was bounding down a cliff, his leg got jammed in a hole. Snap, crackle, pop!
Besides losing strength for the duration of use, ropes do all manner of things. For instance, as kernmantel ropes are pulled over rough surfaces, fibers are pulled out to the side and the ropes become shorter. Along with getting shorter, they become more flexible. This is in general bad because it increments knotting difficultness and the need for friction in the rappel system. The stiffer the rope, the less friction is necessitated in the descender to hold a given amount of weight.
A variation of the Dulfer is called the Geneva (Fig. 4-3). The rope is passed all over the hip and then wrapped around the forearm, rather of going throughout the shoulder. Genevas are in general less painful than Dulfers, but they don't work well if there is a outstanding amount of rope weight beneath the rappeller.
A comfortable harness will concede longer hang times before physical and psychological troubles occur. This is very crucial when raising or letting down injured people. Long periods of hanging may result in uttermost pain, numbness, blood pooling in the legs, blood pressure changes - and fatal mistakes.
As stressed in the Foreword, only the finest rappel instrumentation ought to be used. If you are too poor - or too cheap - to go introductory class, then don't go at all. The aftermaths could be fatal!
The intent of the ears, or horns as they are at times called, is to prevent the rope from slipping upward and cinching. Eared-8's come in a great potpourri of shapes and sizes, and the more spectacular ones may effortlessly pass most knots. The big sizes have longer life, do less harm to ropes, dissipate heat better, and are having little impact to lock than standard Figure-8's.
When use properly, the Sky Genie works satisfactorily. Its prime problem is one of the rope slipping out of an upper slot and making a half turn around the top of the spindle. This only occurs in very hard, fast stops, with heavy loads. Generally, the worst effect of this is a bit less friction. Under extreme circumstance the cover may fly off, letting the spindle come off the rope.
The Pro-Pak descender is designed for use with 5/8 inch tubular Kevlar webbing, which tests at over 9,000 lbs. (4,082 kg.). This webbing is pure Kevlar, and not covered by a mantel, so that it is easy to inspect for abrasion and wear. It is provided with a sewn attachment loop at the end, so that strength is not sacrificed by using a knot when anchoring.
Be careful ladies! Breasts from time to time get caught in descenders. Always carry prusiks for getting unjammed.
This device (Fig. 7-12) is made of heavy steel, and may be applied at the end of a rope to facilitate retrieval. This is described in Chapter 13 underneath "Rope Retrieval." Because Fiffis have been known to break, use only the firmest ones for rappel hookups. If there is any doubt regarding strength, tie two or more together so that they function as one - or better yet, use another method of retrieval.
A rappeller's life depends on numerous factors, not the least of which is how well he ties knots. The knots shown in this chapter are those most ordinarily used in rappelling. You must learn them so well that you may tie them in the dark while in a cold shower.
The angle at which anchor lines run is also of outstanding importance. As may be seen in Fig. 9-3, when lines run parallel, each supports one half of the attached load. As their angle becomes greater, the tension on each line may become much dandier than the total load. At 120 degrees, the tension on each line is doubled; at 170 degrees it is over eleven times greater.
The harness ascender is the descender you are rappelling on. Yes, you may be competent to use it to climb back up the rope! Many descender types readily lend themselves to this purpose. After you stand up in the foot loop, plainly pull the braking end of the rappel rope back by way of the descender, raising it up the rope as far as possible (Fig. 12-13). Apply tension to the line (as if you were stopping a rappel), and sit down. Once again push the ascending knot upward and repeat the climbing process. Any descender may be employed for ascending if the rope may effortlessly be pulled by way of it in reverse - when tension is removed.
Gravity may be harnessed to retrieve a rope. The Gravity Method is rigged much like a Reepschnur, but rather of a cord, a heavy object, like a log is tied securely to the rope. When the rappel is done, the rope is released, and the weight pulls it to the ground.
Visualization is another way to conquer fear, and may be applied in the safety of one's home, before any rappelling is done. In quiet and comfortable surroundings, with the eyes closed, the beginner ought to visualize a positive rappel scenario. Like watching a "movie" in the mind, he ought to imagine himself safely getting over the edge, and tardily sliding to the ground.
Ascender - Any instrument used for ascending ropes which "clamps" on to the rope, supplying movable hand or footholds.
Splat - Sound developed at the end of an excessively fast rappel.
Tail - A rappeller's posterior or dorsal area. Also, that end of a rope nearest to the ground.
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